Splendor Koi & Pond

Pond-Vent Ice Preventer 900

2011-12-05T10:00:00.000-08:00

Every winter, the same problem occurs: The pond freezes up completely, and toxic gases build up at the bottom of the pond and cannot escape. Toxic gases create a lack of oxygen in the water and cause the poisoning of living organisms. Due to this lack of oxygen, fish and microorganisms have practically no chance of survival.

The OASE Pond-Vent Ice Preventer 900 is the solution to this problem.

How does it work?

The Pond-Vent pump pulls the lower layer of water (which has been warmed up to around 39°F by the higher temperature of the earth) from the bottom of the pond. The water is then pumped through the hose, using extremely little energy, and is let out at the surface directly below the floating bowl. 220 gallons per hour are being delivered by the Pond-Vent without breaking up the water layers. The warmth of the water is sufficient to keep a hole with a radius of 11-11.5" ice free. This allows toxic gases caused by decomposition processes (fish excrement, leaves, etc.) to evaporate. This aeration process helps ensure the survival of fish and other microorganisms. In order to operate the Pond-Vent Ice Preventer properly, the pump, which hangs on the floating bowl, should be 8" above the bottom of the pond. The depth of the pond should be 24-32". The enclosed hose, which connects to the floating bowl, is 32" long and can be shortened if necessary. This product has been thoroughly tested and functions in temperatures as low as -4° F.

Dual Purpose Pump: The Pond-Vent ice preventer 900 includes a 1/2" cascade nozzle so that it can be used as a fountain pump during the warmer seasons of the year.

Available at Splendor Koi & pond 770 321 3473 $76.99

Happy Thanksgiving!

2011-11-19T12:10:00.001-08:00

MICROBE-LIFT Autumn/Winter Prep

2011-11-04T07:58:00.000-07:00

Specially Formulated for Pond Winterization

Will Get Your Pond Water Ready for a Clean & Clear Spring!

MICROBE-LIFT/AWP helps accelerate the decomposition of leaves, sediment and other organic matter during the fall and winter months. MICROBE-LIFT/AWP will also jump start your pond to a healthier environment in the spring.

MICROBE-LIFT/AWP is a two-part system of liquid bacteria and dry, water soluble packets containing a blend of cellulase enzymes, cellulase-producing bacteria and a cold weather bacteria. The cellulase enzymes, along with the cellulase-producing bacteria, are the key to accelerating the breakdown of leaves, organic sediment and sludge all winter long. The cold weather bacteria and liquid bacteria take care of the initial breakdown by-products.

Continues to provide sustained biological activity even in water temperatures under 40^oF. (4^oC.)

Contains psychrophilic strains (cold weather bacteria)
If frozen, bacteria will remain effective after thawing out
Effective in darker conditions (under ice and snow)
Helps to maintain a healthy immune system for your fish during the winter months

What Should You Do Now With Your Pond?

2011-11-04T07:40:00.001-07:00

If you have done the Sabbactisun/Parazoryne winter prep work to insure less pathogenic organisms in your fishes' environment, you should also see that the pond is as clean as humanly possible and stretch a net across the pond to keep leaves from entering the pond.

As leaves collect on the netting, scoop them off before they become too heavy. Whereas trees provide valuable shade to koi ponds in summer, they now need vigilance to not become a nuisance in winter. Leaves are slow to break down in water. They give off tannin that discolor the water and lower pH. They provide an ideal habitat for pathogens in your otherwise clean pond. Use ML/Autumn Winter Prep and a good netting over the pond to minimize potential dangers.

winterizing-101

2011-09-03T07:57:00.000-07:00

Survey

2011-08-03T11:54:00.000-07:00

Let us know how we are doing!

Koi Ponds require diligence!

2011-07-27T08:58:00.000-07:00

Investigate before investing in time-consuming hobby.
by Lory Johnston for the AJC

Koi ponds don't always equal tranquility.
If you're not prepared, cost and stress of repairs could ruin the serene setting you crave.
"It's a hobby that you have to enjoy. There is consistent maintenence involved in it,"
said Thomas Boyce, owner of Dacula-based Innovative Outdoors.
Chuck Crisp, owner of Splendor Koi & Pond in Marietta, said once people come down
with koi fever, theyoften want to buy more fish and improve their pond, adding more
upkeep and more money.
"People who have koi ponds will pull in their driveway, they will close their garage,
walk through their kitchen and go right to their koi pond, if it works. If you've got a
bad pond, you don't have interest in it," he said.
As with other hobbies or home improvements, you'll want to get a sense of cost
and how much your yard - and time - can handle.

Budget before you buy
It cost at least $5,000 to $7,000 - on the low end - to install a small koi pond, Boyce said.
Crisp said he's seen homeowners spend that on filtration system alone, and cost for
the ponds he installs often range from $20,000 to hundreds of thousands of dollars.
If you're buying a home that has a koi pond, you'll need to make sure it's in good shape
before adding fish.
"In the pond, you're creating an ecosystem. The chemicals, pH, everything has to be in balance
for the koi to stay alive and healthy," Boyce said.
The most expensive ponds, Crisp said, feature luxury items like premium filtration systems,
underwater and landscaping lighting, and automatic water level systems.
Monthly costs, on average, include $50-$100 for equipment and electrical needs,
and $50-$100 on chemicals, Crisp said.
The fish are priced based on size, variety and quality. Crisp said his selection starts at $15 and
goes to $12,000. Groups such as the Atlanta Koi Club also sell fish at auction.

You'll need shade, power source
Koi need to be protected by shade, wish can dictate where a pond is placed on your property.
"Koi can't be in an area that's really exposed or real bright," Boyce said.
Factor in your power situation, because you want to make sure electricity is available
in the area, and also consider how far you want to walk to see the fish. Also, do you
want to walk right out your patio to see the fish or farther into your yard?
Predators present another chalenge, so there are options such as netting systems
or even sensors that will squirt water at birds to keep them away from fish, Boyce said.

Make sure pond fits landscape
New koiponds have a natural flowing look that fit into the style of the landscape, compared to
boxy ponds of the 1990's, Boyce said.
You'll want to determine how many fish your pond can hold.
Acommon guideline is 1inch of fish for every 10 gallons of water. Boyce says he's

seen ponds usually 2,000-3,000 gallons.

http://www.ajchomefinder.com/gardening/outdoor-living-koi-ponds-989661.html

Koi Varieties

2011-06-30T13:23:00.000-07:00

Koi Gene Tree

Apiosoma (a.k.a. Glossatella)

2011-06-23T13:35:00.000-07:00

Symptoms: Apiosoma, formerly known as Glossatella, is common among pond-raised fish. It can be diagnosed by the presence of vase-shaped parasites on the gills, skin, or fins. This parasite causes increased mucus production and hyperplasia of the skin and/or gills. If hyperplasia of the gills occurs, the fish will experience respiratory distress and may be seen near the surface of the water, gasping for air.
Cause: The ciliated protozoan Apiosoma. This disease is more prevalent when fish are exposed to poor water conditions.
Treatment: Fish can be treated with 15-30 minute bath of Copper Sulfate (5-7 ppm) or Malachite Green (1 ppm) or they can be given a continuous bath with concentrations 10 x lower than the bath solutions. Other treatments include 30 minute baths of Potassium permanganate (10 mg/L) or a continuous bath (2 mg/L) or a 30 minute bath with Formalin (150-250 mg/L) or a continuous bath (15-25 mg/L = 2 drops/gallon or 1 mL/10 gallons).

Cotton Ball Disease

2011-06-20T08:38:00.000-07:00

What is Cotton Ball Disease?

Cotton Ball Disease is a fungal disease that grows when poor water quality causes fish to stress. It is most prevelant when there is a great amount of uneaten food in your pond or there are too many koi in the pond for its size. The fungus can apear on any part of the koi, especially when they are stressed.

Identifying Cotton Ball Disease:

When a fish has this disease it developes what looks like a fur coat developing on its body. The “fur” is actually mold on the skin. As the disease progresses, the “fur” gets longer and developes cotton-like tuffs.

Treatment:

The best way to treat this fungus is to manage the conditions that first brought on the stress. First, you can decrease the number of koi in your pond. Then, you can improve the water quality through partial water changes, upgrading your filter system, increasing aeration, and bringing in an ammovia remover like AmQuel Plus.

Source: http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/dealing-with-cotton-wool-fungus-on-your-koi.html

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Koi Herpesvirus

2011-06-20T08:02:00.000-07:00

What is Koi Herpesvirus?

Koi Herpesvirus (KHV) is a DNA virus diagnosed in koi and carp. Once infected, fish will obtain KHV for life. Clinical signs of the disease appear most frequently in water temperatures between 72* and 81*F (22* and 27*C).

Signs of KHV:

In infected groups of fish, mortality can begin very rapidly after clinical signs of KHV. KHV may produce gill lesions which exhibit as gill mottling with red and white patches. Other physical signs of KHV may include bleeding gills, pale patches or blisters on the skin, and sunked eyes. Behaviorally, affected fish may remain near the surface, exhibit respiratory distress, and swimming lethargically and uncoordinated.

Methods of Infection:

Ways to spread KHV include direct contact with infected fish, fluids from infected fish and water, and mud that has come in contact with contaminated systems. Exposed fish may become infected, die, or may become a carrier.

Treatment:

There is no treatment for KHV. Antivirul drugs are not available to treat any virus of cultured fish. If water temperatures are increased to 86*F (30*C) during the outbreak, fish may have an increased chance of survival.

Prevention:

Make sure the supplier of your fish has not had any major unexplained loss of fish. The best way to prevent your fish from contracting KHV is to make sure your fish suppliers test for the disease and have not had any fish with KHV. Once you have bought your fish, quarantining them is the best way to avoid the introduction of pathogens to the rest of your pond and fish. Fish should be quarantined in a seperate system for at least 30 days.

Source:http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/vm113

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Spring Viremia of Carp

2011-06-18T11:52:00.000-07:00

What is Spring Viremia of Carp?
Spring viremia of carp is cause by an RNA virus.

Signs of SVC:
-Darkening of skin
-Pop eye
-Hemorrhages in the gills, skin, and eye
-Inflammation
-Pinpoint hemorrhages in the swim bladder
-Concurrent infection with bacteria
-Decreased respiration rate
-Loss of equilibrium

Treatment:

There are no antiviral drugs to treat SVC. Manipulating temperature is the most practical means of preventing of controlling mortality. Keeping the water temperature above 20*C (68*F) may help contribute to prevent a potention outbreak. Fish exposed to stressors become more likely to contract the virus due to immune system suppression.

Source: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/vm106

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Carp Pox

2011-06-18T11:33:00.000-07:00

What is Carp Pox?

Carp Pox is a herpes virus contracted by koi and goldfish. While it's not dangerous, it's also not curable and very distracting from the beauty of your fish. A wart-like bump with raise up and appear to go away. The warts will usually appear when the water is cold.

Detecting Carp Pox:

The warts exhibited by Carp Pox look like drops of wax. While they can appear anywhere on the fish, they often times come up on the fins.

Treatment:

There really is no treatment for Carp Pox. Do not, however, try to scrape off the warts as it will injure your fish and won't solve the problem.

Source: PondDoc.com

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Swimmer's Gill

2011-06-18T11:20:00.000-07:00

What makes fish gills more problematic than then rest of the body is that we can't really see what is going on. Many times, when you can tell that the fish is sick, the damage is too advanced that it is untreatable. In turn, early diagnosis and treatment is key.

Signs of gill trouble:

-Fish respiring heavily. Judge this by comparing the movement with other fish.

-Fish laying on the bottom of ponds for long periods, not eating.

-Fish only using one gill, keeping the other against its body.

-Affected fish segregating itself and staying alone near the surface.

-Strands of mucus trailing from the gills.

-Fish laying on the bottom of the pond with both fins clamped to side.

Treatments:

-Most gill diseases can be avoided with good water management practices.

-Check your pond water for ammonia, nitrite, pH.

-If several fish are affected, somewhere between 50-75% of the water should be changed.

-Examine your fish for parasites.

-In advanced stages, the chances of survival is not good. Prevention is the best way to make sure your fish are safe.

Source: drjohnson.com

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Fin Rot

2011-06-18T09:28:00.000-07:00

What is Fin Rot?

Fin Rot is a term used for loss of fin tissue, resulting in split or ragged fins. It is usually the edge of the fin that is attacked, although sometimes a hole in the middle of the fin may occur. The edge of the lesion is usually opaque or whitish. In advanced stages, the fin may experience some reddening or inflammation. If left untreated, fin rot can slowly eat away at the entire fin and make its way up to the fish's body.

Causes:

Fin rot is most frequently caused by stress, fear, or poor environmental conditions. It is usually self-resolving, but it does show how sensitive fish can be to stress.

Treatment:

The stress fish experience can be due to parasites, overcrowding, low oxygen, bullying, poor water quality, and other aspects of your pond that can effect your fish. If the stressor is caught, it might be sufficient enough to stop fin rot. In more advanced stages, it may be necessary to trim and remove the affected tissue. This will need to be done when the fish is sedated. In minor cases, the fin will most likely grow back.

Source: drjohnson.com

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Bacterial Ulcers

2011-06-18T09:11:00.000-07:00

Bacterial ulcers can be one of the most difficult Koi Fish problems to handle. Effectively treating the ulcers can take a lot of time and experience. However, the success rate can be very high, unlike bacterial gill diseases.

What is an ulcer?

An ulcer is a break in the skin extending through all the layers and is usually accompanied by inflammation. Without treatment, the ulcer slowly gets bigger. Many times, it is caused by opportunistic bacteria already in the pond or tank.

Causes:

Ulcers can be caused by damage to the skin from parasites or chemiclas or from trama caused by breeding efforts or handling. If only one fish is affected, a health issue specific to that individual is probably the cause. If several fish are affected, there is likely an environmental issue. It is very important to establish the underlying cause to be able to effectively treat the bacterial infection.

Treatment:

It is hard to give a general treatment for bacterial ulcers because it really depends on the specific environment and circumstances of each case. If several fish are affected, it is important that they are examined to determine the full extent and spread of the infection. It is important that all of the infected fish are treated at the same time, otherwise, the untreated fish will continue to get worse and act as a reservoir of infection. Treatment can be in topical treatments, medicated food, bath treatments, or antibiotic injections. The aim should be to resolve the problem in 2-3 weeks. If there is not marked improvement during this time, the treatment plan needs to be reevaluated.

Source: drjohnson.com

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Anchor Worm

2011-06-17T11:05:00.000-07:00

AKA: LERNAEA

"You don't need a microscope to see Anchor Worm. The adult female which is the only one you'll find on your koi or pond fish (males die shortly after mating) looks like a thread hanging from your koi fish with a pair of egg sacs that are shaped like a "Y" at the end on the body. The head (which has anchors) of the Anchor Worm is imbedded into the body of the koi and pond fish. The piercing of the skin causes inflammation. However, the biggest threat is, the bacteria infection anchor worm causes leaving a hole in the protective "slime coat" and skin. These "holes" give the opportunistic bacteria such as Aeromonas or Pseudomonas which are one of the biggest causes of deadly ulcers (body sores) to invade your koi and pond fish. Anchor worm can survive winter conditions as an adult female on your koi or as eggs."

Source: Aquameds.com

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Chilodonella

2011-06-17T11:04:00.001-07:00

"Chilodonella can be a major threat to your koi and pond fish. Chilodonella kills fast and in great numbers. Chilodonella can survive in a wide range of temperatures. Chilodonella will attack your fish in the spring when the temperature of your pond water is low and your koi and pond fish are weak. However, chilodonella can cause great losses anytime of year, it can lie dormant just waiting for your koi or pond fish to become stressed or weak."

Source: Aquameds.com

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Costia

2011-06-17T11:04:00.000-07:00

Ichthyobodo: AKA Costia

"Costia is a microscopic parasite. It is not uncommon to find very small populations of Costia on some koi or pond fish. However, the problem begins when these populations grow into large numbers which do damage to the gills and skin of your koi or pond fish. Plus, they also cause secondary bacterial infections. Costia reproduce by a process called binary fission “they divide in two”. Give them the right high temperature and they can double every few hours. Costia can wipe out a collection of koi and pond fish very quickly."

Causes:
Sick fish, poor water conditions, overcrowding and poor management. Most parasites will die if you dry out your nets, hoses and other pond tools, NOT Costia! Costia will infect one group of fish to another even on dried pond tools and tanks."

Souce: Aquameds.com

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Fish Lice

2011-06-17T11:03:00.001-07:00

AKA, Argulus

"Fish Lice can become a major threat to your koi pond, water garden and are very common in ponds and water gardens in the fall of the year. Fish lice are big enough to see with the naked eye. Many fish keepers think their fish have freckles until they see the "freckles" move from one location on the body to another. As juveniles fish lice are very small, however, fish lice can grow as large as a fourth inch round in size.

Fish lice will move around the fish's body injecting it's stinger into the body, sucking out body fluids. This constant piercing of the skin causes inflammation. However, the biggest threat is, as the fish lice move from one location to another they leave a hole in the protective "slime coat" and skin. These "holes" give the opportunistic bacteria such as Aeromonas or Pseudomonas which are one of the biggest causes of deadly ulcers (body sores) to invade your koi and pond fish.

Fish lice are egg layers. They mate on your fish and then lay their eggs on plants and other objects in your pond. Eggs can last through the winter and hatch in the spring as the temperature rises."

Source: Aquameds.com

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Flukes

2011-06-17T11:03:00.000-07:00

Gill Flukes / Body Flukes
A Pond Keepers Number One Parasite Enemy !!

"Controlling gill flukes and body flukes are a major step in basic koi care. Flukes are one of the main causes of pond fish ulcers. You can cure the ulcers but if you don’t eliminate the flukes the ulcers will return. Here’s what you should know about flukes and how to keep them from harming your pond fish friends.

First of all you cannot see gill flukes or body flukes with the naked eye, they are microscopic. The life span of a gill fluke or body fluke in warm water is 14 to 30 days, however, in cold water, eggs and adults can survive up to seven months. This is why it’s so important for koi collectors to treat their koi fish every spring and fall for flukes.

There are two classes of flukes: Gill Flukes Dactylogyrus (Dacs) and Body Flukes Gyrodactylus (Gyros).

1) Dactylogyrus (Dacs): are called gill flukes, however, gill flukes are also found on the body. Gill flukes are “egg layers”. Depending on the temperature of the water the eggs can hatch from 4 to 30 days. No treatment will terminate gill flukes in the “egg stage”. For this reason treatments must be done over a period of time and that time depends on the temperature of the water. The warmer the water, the faster the eggs will hatch making the treatment time shorter.
2) Gyrodactylus (Gyros): are called body flukes, however, Gyros are also found on the gills. Gyros are ” Live Bearers”. As soon as the young are born they attack your goldfish. A treatment of five to seven days will solve your body fluke problem.

How do Gill Flukes and Body flukes harm my koi?

Flukes bite through the koi’s protective “slime coat” and into the skin of the koi causing deadly bacterial forming ulcers which can be fatal to your koi. Gill flukes will eat away healthy gills to a point that your koi will not be able to breathe.

Don’t wait for signs of flukes to appear on your koi fish. Treat every new pond fish for gill flukes and body flukes no matter where you bought them. In fact, you should treat all your Koi fish for gill flukes and body flukes every spring and then again in the fall just before your koi fish get ready for their long winter’s nap.

Keeping your koi free from deadly gill flukes and body flukes will bring you a long way in keeping your koi fish happy and healthy!

Good Koi Care Means “Fluke Free” Koi and pond fish!!!

Source: Aquameds.com

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ICH

2011-06-17T10:53:00.002-07:00

Ichthyophthirius AKA ICH
"Ich is a very deadly parasite that can produce thousands of offspring in a very short period. Adults burrow into the skin, feeding on dead cells and blood. This causes an irritation of the skin that looks like small white spots (white spot disease). Just because you don’t see the “white spots” doesn’t mean your fish don’t have ich. A microscope will tell you for sure if ich is present.

When the adults have their bellies full of dead cells and body fluids they punch their way out of the fish’s body and drop to the bottom attaching themselves to plants or other objects in your pond. Forming a “capsule” around itself they can produce up to a thousand tiny capsules called (tomites). These tomites hatch producing very hungry baby ich looking for “dinner” and the cycle starts all over again. Ich can be deadly to tropical fish goldfish, koi and pond fish."

Source: Aquameds.com

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Trichodina

2011-06-17T10:53:00.001-07:00

"Trichodina is a microscopic parasite that uses your koi and pond fish for a home and transportation. Unlike other parasites trichodina does not dine on your koi fish. Trichodina lives on the bacteria in the water. The only time trichodina can cause death in your koi and pond fish is when it is found in great numbers in the gills. However, the main cause of death in koi and pond fish by trichodina is, their extremely irritating denticles (attachments) which cause damage to the “slime coat” and skin of your koi fish, causing secondary bacterial infections at the site like deadly “ulcers”. Plus, this irritation also causes your koi and pond fish to “flash” (rubbing against objects in your fish pond) again causing more damage and more secondary infections.

Causes:
When you have trichodina in your koi and fish pond it’s a good sign of poor pond water conditions and overcrowding. Trichodina can survive a long time living in the “sludge” on the bottom of your koi pond and pond filter caused by a build up of fish waste, bird droppings and other debris. Our Aqua Meds "Sludge Remover" will help remove the sludge from the bottom of your fish pond."

Source:
Aquameds.com

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Ammonia: The Most Common Killer

2011-06-17T10:53:00.000-07:00

When fish finish digesting their food, they excrete a waste product known as ammonia through mostly their gill tissue and their kidney. Fish excrete waste through their gills by osmosis. Ammonia may collect in ponds when there is a presence of excess food, organic debris, and decay of dead fish tissues. When ammonia accumulates, it causes the fish’s skin to redden. It also damages the gills through its direct contact with them. If a fish’s gills are damaged to begin with, the fish cannot excrete ammonia normally. Furthermore, if the ammonia level in a pond is high, healthy fish cannot even excrete ammonia through their gills against this harsh gradient. In harsh conditions like so, fish will die.

Fortunately, it is not hard to recognize the signs of fish suffering from ammonia poisoning. Fish will typically isolate themselves, clamp their fins, secrete excess slime, and lie on the bottom of the pond. Subsequently, ammonia depresses the immune system of fish by lowering the cortisol stress-response on important immune fighter cells. Ammonia has been known to do this at very low levels (0.25 ppm and below). When this occurs, fish have an increased risk of developing parasitic and bacterial infections. It is safe to say that no ammonia level should be considered tolerable in a pond. If you suspect your fish are suffering from ammonia poisoning, it is imperative that you purchase a water test kit as soon as possible. Drop type test kits include ammonia testing and are accurate and fairly inexpensive.

If you have ammonia accumulations in your pond, the reason is probably due to overproduction of waste. Overproduction is either due to the number of fish in your pond or amount of feed. Another reason for ammonia collection is under-utilization, also known as an inadequate filter biomass or circulation. In new ponds, ammonia can be a significant issue because the bacteria that naturally reduce or remove ammonia are not established yet. In fact, ammonia can be a problem to all ponds. Ammonia may gather in the springtime when the water is cold but warm enough for fish to feed because bacteria have not usefully emerged from “hibernation”. In the fall, ammonia levels may appear as water temperatures decline and beneficial ammonia-reducing bacteria function less efficiently.

From below a pH of 7.4, ammonia ionizes to the ammonium state, which deems it as less toxic to fish. When the pH is higher than 8.0, most ammonia is de-ionized, thus becoming increasingly toxic. You should not let the pH of your pond rise above 7.2 if there is a lot of ammonia present. It is a common misconception that you need to lower the pH or restrict aeration to fish to keep the pH down, which is thought to allow carbonic acid accumulation to hold down the pH to preserve ammonia in its non-toxic state. Considering this, never decrease aeration in show tanks just to hold down the pH for ammonia.

Although ammonia can be a significant problem, there are many ways to lower its levels. Water changes, management of the pH near or just about neutral (7.2 to 7.4), and abbreviated feeding schedules will make a noteworthy difference. Some ammonia treatments include the use of various water conditions that bind ammonia and the application of rechargeable Zeolites (clinoptilolite ion exchanging resin) to the system filter. Water changes can be effective, if you follow certain guidelines. You may already know that water quality deterioration calls for a continual daily water change of 20-40% of the total volume in a pond. Keeping this mind, you should make sure the water change does not drastically differ the water temperature. It is important to check your water after a water change for a certain result-electrolyte poor water. On a side note, testing the total alkalinity of the water will detect this, as well as other salts.

Adding a teaspoon of salt per gallon of water in a water change (where live plants are not present) can make a substantial difference in dealing with ammonia. By doing so, you will ease the stress from the water change on the fish and stimulate the production of a healthy, productive slime coating. The salt dose will not harm fish lacking scales. The best salt to use is table salt or sea salt. Iodized salt, also being harmless to fish, may be used, but there is popular belief that the Iodine can stun the beneficial bacteria residing in your filter. When doing daily, massive water changes, make sure the pH is not fluctuating significantly with each change. When treating the water, suspend or reduce feeding. Moreover, you should switch to Cheerios or another non-protein cereal. If you have a well, the pH of the water from it is either extremely low or extremely high, depending on where you live. Well water is known to come from a source with a very low oxygen level, or high levels of undesirable gasses and dissolved compounds.

Zeolites, exhaustible clay resin that binds to ammonia from water, is another known ammonia treatment. This treatment works by measuring the ammonia in a pond at first, then recharging the Zeolites after. Once the ammonia returns after employing the Zeolites, it is time to recharge again. Even in stable systems, they should be used for no more than three to four weeks without recharging. Moreover, they can be recharged in a stiff saltwater solution (2-3%). If you are using salt for another purpose in your pond, you must remove the Zeolites. When exposed to salt, Zeolites dump their accumulated ammonia back into circulation. To actually recharge the Zeolites, fill a five-gallon bucket and put forty to fifty tablespoons of salt in it. After this, soak the Zeolites overnight and re-use the saltwater over and over for this. Zeolites will not starve your filter.

If you are considering using a water conditioner to solve your ammonia problem, be cautious in your decision. For instance, there is a synthetic agent that coats fish with a protective coating that may be harmful to the fish. Until it is reformulated, it is likely that it may make a fish sicker than it already is. The compound, for example, will coat the fish’s gills if it already has serious parasitic or chemical gill damage. This can complicate respiration, since the gills were not functioning to begin with. Some conditioners are sold to bind ammonia. A few of these use aldehydes to solve this issue: however, aldeyhdes can accumulate and become caustic to fish if no ammonias are actually present. Although they are useful, they should be used only sparingly and judiciously.

Sources: "Ammonia in Fish Ponds Is Deadly to Fish. Pond Filters Remove It." Water Gardens, Fish Ponds: Build & Care for a Garden FishPond. Web. 03 Mar. 2011. . Johnson, Erik L. "Ammonia: Most Common Killer of New Fish." Koi Vet. Web. 3 Mar. 2011. . Johnson, Erik L. "Koi, Goldfish & Pond Health Ammonia & Koi Health - Ammonia or Ammonium - Measuring This Silent Killer." Koi, Goldfish & Pond Health In Twenty Steps. Web. 03 Mar. 2011.

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A Friendly Addition to Your Pond: The Plecostomus

2011-06-17T10:52:00.002-07:00

Have you ever lifted up a rock in your pond, only to realize that your hand is covered in a stringy, green slime? Ah, the infamous string algae. This type of algae can reach such a length that it gains the appearance of hair or string. On a peaceful note, string algae is actually relatively easy to control once you realize how.

Plecostomus, Hypostomus plecostomus, plecos, plecs, algae eater, sucker fish…(what ever you want to call it) is the miracle worker of a pond suffering from algae blooms. Being omnivores by nature, these fish absolutely love to eat string algae. In fact, the only algae they do not eat is the algae they cannot reach…i.e. the algae on the waterfall. In medium ponds, you may do well with two plecostomus; however, you may want to buy larger plecostomus if your pond is larger than twelve thousand gallons. For small ponds of two or three thousand gallons, two small plecostomus will do the job. If you have a pond smaller than two thousand gallons, baby plecostomus will work best.

At the end of a growing season, plecomstomus will grow over a foot long. Since they are tropical fish, plecostomus cannot survive in outdoor ponds in the winter if the water temperatures drop below 55 degrees Fahrenheit. If you are interested in buying plecostomus for your outdoor pond, the best time to do so actually depends on the time of year (generally towards the middle/end of spring) when the temperature of the water in your pond is above 55 degrees at night.

In very small ponds, plecostomus are generally very aggressive. If you have a pond of less than 600 gallons, a pair of plecostomus would not be your smartest choice. Another factor that plays into your decision in buying a pair of plecostomus for a small pond is if you have any other pond fish besides koi. Goldfish, being a slow moving fish, may become the chef’s special on the plecostomus’s lunch menu because of their appealing slime coat and scales. However, plecostomus would much rather eat algae than chase around fish, given the choice. Not only do plecostomus eat algae in your pond, but they also feed on leftover food that your koi do not eat. If leftover food in a pond is not eaten, it will eventually turn into ammonia. That being, plecostomus also solve an ammonia problem. On a side note, if your pond is experiencing high ammonia levels, it is imperative that you restore the level to normal. High ammonia levels are very toxic to fish. For more information on ammonia control, read our article about ammonia and the water cycle.

References:
Johnson, Erik L. "Plecostomus String Algae Control." Koi Vet. Web. 3 Mar. 2011. .
Controlling Algae." Pond Systems - Kits, Supplies and Koi. Web. 01 Mar. 2011. .
"Getting Rid of Algae in Koi Ponds | The String Algae Blues." Japanese Koi Fish Guide. Web. 01 Mar. 2011. .
Johnson, Erik L. "Plecostomus String Algae Control." Koi Vet. Web. 3 Mar. 2011. .
"Koi Pond Filters – Keeping It Clean As Nature Intended | Koi Pond Garden." Koi Pond Garden | Koi Fish Pond Care and Maintenance. Web. 01 Mar. 2011. .
" Medicine. Web. 01 Mar. 2011. .
"Plecostomus." Wikipedia, the Free Encyclopedia. Web. 03 Mar. 2011.

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Decoys: Use Them Discerningly

2011-06-17T10:52:00.001-07:00

Have you ever stared out the window in your house one day while washing dishes, alarmed to suddenly see a large bird heading straight for your backyard pond? Or better yet…seen one conspicuously standing in a tree making sushi out of your favorite koi? Well, do not fear. There are many solutions to guard your prized koi from predators. Decoys, the most common solution, can solve a Heron problem but only if you know how to use them correctly. Most people start out with a decoy before trying any other methods because decoys are…well, more attractive than placing netting over a pond. The trick to using a decoy successfully lies in knowing when and where to use them and for what purpose.

The entire concept of placing a Blue Heron decoy (or two) near a pond is to prevent rival Heron from landing there. For most of the year, Great Blue Herons exhibit territorial behavior, preferring to stay clear of ponds already being fished by a rival heron. A decoy that is true-to-life can act as a Heron that has claimed the pond as his own. When the weather starts warming up in the beginning of spring, the Heron mating season starts. During this time, a decoy can actually do more harm than good. For instance, if a male heron thinks your heron decoy is a female, he will surely be interested in your decoy. This attracts him to your pond, which contradicts the whole purpose of the decoy to begin with. In order to avoid this problem, you should remove the decoy from your pond area during mating season (early March to late May).

When mating season is over, you must move the decoy around your pond. Staking the Heron decoy in one place permanently will not be helpful in establishing your pond area as the decoy’s own territory. Herons are actually a lot more intelligent than we think. In addition, you should make sure your decoy looks exactly like a Blue Heron. Someone’s ornamental, abstract form of art does not qualify as a decoy; moreover, crane statues do not work. If your pond is fairly large, it may be in your best interest to buy a pair of heron decoy. As far as placement goes, place the decoy(s) near the pond’s edge or standing in the water. For the record, it is a federal crime in Georgia to shoot a Great Blue Heron. If you use a Heron decoy wisely, you will never have to go to this extent.

Fortunately, there are other types of decoys available for ponds. The alligator, being a realistic enemy of the predator birds, is a great addition to any pond. An alligator decoy may be used for both floating in the water and on land. The least popular decoys available are replicas of koi and goldfish. Blue herons will stand completely still in the pond, while waiting for a fish to swim near. They will go after the floating decoys first, since they are much easier to attack. The attack will create a splash that scares the koi, giving them enough time to venture deeper inside the pond to hide. If the heron takes the decoy, then the joke is surely on him.

References:
"Blue Heron Decoy-Pond Scarecrow -Racoon-Pond Decoy-Animal-Bird Control." Koi Pond Pumps-Pond Filters-Pond Supplies-Fountains-Fish Supplies. Web. 04 Mar. 2011. .
"Decoys for the Pond - Use Them Wisely." The Pond Doc's World - Loaded with Information! Everything Koi Pond and Water Garden Related with Added Home and Garden and Personalized Products. Web. 04 Mar. 2011. .
"The Great Blue Heron." The Pond Doc's World - Loaded with Information! Everything Koi Pond and Water Garden Related with Added Home and Garden and Personalized Products. Web. 04 Mar. 2011. .
"Scarecrow Sprinkler vs. Blue Heron Decoy." Pond Supply Blog. Web. 04 Mar. 2011. .

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Koi Feeding 101

2011-06-17T10:52:00.000-07:00

Overview:
Being omnivores, koi have a diet that consists of both animal and vegetable food. With the many varieties
of koi food containing both of these matters, owners should be able to provide a healthy, balanced diet.
When purchasing food for koi, the food must be able to float for at least eight hours. Also, the water in a
pond must not turn cloudy for 48 hours, that is, if the fish are not eating. In order to provide food that is
safe and healthy for koi, owners should first test food in a glass filled with water. Owners should not let
faulty label claims stating that ”the water will not cloud” fool them. Every kind of fish food clouds, due to a
chemical reaction that takes place when food breaks down in the water.
The Food Role:
Like humans and other organisms, koi have metabolic functions that run on a nutritional basis. The food an
owner feeds their koi is used by the koi for two simple functions. First, the food is broken down into more
basic compounds. These simpler compounds are utilized as a foundation in the process of tissue growth.
Once enough compounds are used to fulfill the needs of replacing damaged tissue, the leftover compounds
are used as fuel. Finally, the material that is not used for fuel is stored in the body as fat, or exuded as
waste. The other simple function of koi food is the providing two basic energy forms. The first energy
form, basic energy, is needed at all times, so that the koi’s heart, kidneys, and other internal organs may
operate constantly. The second energy form, muscular energy, is used to drive koi through the water.
Food Components:
In the koi diet, the basic components are fat, proteins, and carbohydrates. Owners should however, add
vitamins and minerals to the koi diet. Proteins are compounds created by amino acid fusion. Some protein
is synthesized in the koi body. Others, however, are provided by the flesh of different animals. These
proteins are known as essential amino acids. Commercial food has been specially formulated to ensure
this. Protein rich live foods include: invertebrates such as earthworms, Daphnia-“water fleas”, aquatic
worms, and insects. Carbohydrates consist of simple sugars, or monosaccharides. They can be found in all
vegetable matter. Fats, made up of a crucial group of compounds, may be liquid or solid in their physical
state. They are in fact, the most efficient energy form. Older koi fish benefit from a fat increase, as they find
fats to be easy to digest. One of the downfalls of fats can be overconsumption, which may lead to fatty
liver disease. Vitamins, required in small amounts, are vital to fish. In the presence of heat, vitamins are
destroyed. Foods that contain the richest source of vitamins include: green plants, vegetables, liver, fruit,
and fish oils. Vitamin deficiency can result in: weight loss, poor bone structure, loss of fertility, loss of
appetite, stunted growth, inability to consume foods, and nervousness. While a deficiency is unfortunate, an
excess can be just as undesirable. In the body, not all vitamins are expelled. Therefore, some vitamins stay
within the body. This retention can cause an imbalance, which may prevent the usage of other vitamins.
Although koi need minerals in their diet, only a certain amount is required. However, the list of minerals
important to koi is extensive. Some minerals include: magnesium, copper, cobalt, zinc, sulfur, iron, iodine,
fluorine, molybdenum, and selenium. Calcium and phosphorous happen to be the most important though.
Calcium is needed in much larger amounts in comparison to the amounts of other minerals. It is extremely
important to the formation of bone structure. Typically, there is no need to present minerals in the diet
because they are naturally found in all foods and in water. One exception may be providing a calcium
supplement before breeding season. Like vitamins, minerals can be a deficiency or excess. Mineral rich
foods include vegetables like spinach, kale, and lettuce. Algal forms of plant life found in commercially
prepared foods contain many minerals.
Diet:
Overall, a koi diet should contain 35% proteins of animal origin. The remainder of the diet should consist of
carbohydrates. Protein should be increased in amount in the diet of young fish. Commercial koi foods come
in many forms. Some include: flakes, cubes, granules, powders, and pellets. Live foods may be acquired
by: purchasing them from a local dealer, catching them in the wild, or by breeding them from cultures
supplied by pet stores. However, it is not required to supply live foods to koi. Providing koi with
commercial food will fulfill all of their nutritional needs.
Feeding:
Koi spend a considerable amount of time browse feeding and searching for food on the bottom of a pond.
They will eat any live food they may find. When koi are kept in ponds that do not have plants, it is crucial
to feed them often but in small portions. Koi should be fed at least twice a day, being once in the morning
and once in the late afternoon, or evening. It is a good idea to alternate the diet between higher protein
meals and meals with a large carbohydrate content. Avoiding feeding the same meal everyday will ensure
that koi remain interested in eating. When feeding fish, it is important to devote a few minutes to watch
them eat. Owners should observe the individual eating habits of all the koi in their pond. This way, if a
problem arises, they may trace it back to the eating habits of a certain fish. A shift in an eating habit is the
first sign of a problem with a koi fish. By observing fish eating for a few minutes, an owner may prevent
overfeeding koi. Doing so, an owner will be able to tell if their koi eat all of the food they give them within
five to ten minutes. If the koi do not eat all of the food in that time period, the leftover food then sinks and
decomposes, causing excess ammonia in the pond, which can be extremely harmful to fish.
Feeding Guidelines:
The metabolism of a koi functions best at temperatures over 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Foods that are rich in
protein are hard for koi to digest when the temperature drops below 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Do not feed
koi when the temperature reaches over 90 degrees Fahrenheit.

Sources:
Picture: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a5/Hungry_koi.jpg
Laguna Koi: http://www.lagunakoi.com/Koi-Feeding-Guide-Library-sc-334.html
Barrie, Anmarie. The Professional's Book of Koi. Neptune City: T.F.H. Publications, Inc., n.d.

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Mechanical and Biological Filtration

2011-06-17T10:51:00.001-07:00

The filter is important in keeping your pond water free of chemical pollutants and crystal-clear. Two major types of filtration include:

MECHANICAL POND FILTRATION: It is the physical removal of debris from water using materials that trap large and small particles. Polyester Pre-Filter Pads last longer and filter better than other pre-filtration products, even after a few cleanings.

If your pond is ornamental or you are looking for a pre-filter for your pump, a mechanical filter will be best to choose. The filter is designed to separate large particles and debris from the water passing through it. This is an advantage when protecting a pump. When it is run through a mechanical filter, water will not be treated and will retain toxins or harmful substances it had before entering the filter. Because of this, mechanical filters are not recommended as the only source of filtration for a pond that contains fish. Most filters available on the market feature some degree of mechanical filtration besides their specialized function. Skimmers, canister filters, and prefilters all rely on mechanical filtration.

BIOLOGICAL FILTRATION: This is where your pond filter provides an area for beneficial bacteria to grow on special media. This kind of bacteria removes harmful pollutants from pond water. The beneficial bacteria convert poisonous compounds like ammonia and nitrite, to a less toxic nitrate. Nitrate, the end by-product, is used as a food source by aquatic plants. As you may know, this continuous process is the nitrogen cycle. Biological Pond Filtration uses specific bacteria to break down waste products to less harmful substances. There are two stages in the breakdown of ammonia, each involving different kinds of bacteria. The first stage is the breakdown of ammonia to nitrite by nitrifying bacteria, most important is Nitrosomonas. The second stage converts nitrite to nitrate by Nitrobacteria. Both of these kinds of bacteria are aerobic. Sediment build up in the filter will deplete oxygen levels, so it important to keep sediment at a low level by using a settlement chamber first and by cleaning the filter out occasionally. Do not use tap water because chlorine will kill the bacteria.

There are many things to put in the filter such as gravel, matting, hair rollers, foam, and Canterbury spar. All of these provide surface for bacteria to thrive on. A biological filter will take weeks or months to mature. Cultures of nitrifying bacteria are available and will speed up the process.

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Nitrification

2011-06-17T10:51:00.000-07:00

1.) FISH WASTE: Fish excrete waste, but waste is also present in uneaten food and pieces of decaying plant fragments. Things like leaves, grass clippings, molds, and pollens may be present. Animal matter may exist from dead insects to bird droppings. Make sure to check your pond frequently for anything that has fallen into the water and remove it quickly so it does not overwhelm the pond filter and produce ammonia. Also, if you see a dead frog in your pond, take it out.

2.) DECOMPOSED WASTE: Heterotrophic bacteria transfer this matter into ammonia.

3.) AMMONIA: This is very deadly to fish. It is present when you first start a pond because new ponds go through a rising ammonia cycle. This can be shortened via seeding with commercial bacteria. Also, new ponds should be planted with fish that are not valuable until you manage the cycle properly.

4.) NITRITES: Nitrifying bacteria transfer ammonia into NITRITES.

5.) NITRATES: Nitrate bacteria transfer the nitrites into less harmful NITRATES.

6.) PLANTS: Pond plants act as a buffer zone for your pond to fight off ammonia spikes. Alone, they do very little. They absorb and metabolize nitrates as a food source. Plants also clean and pump oxygen into the water.

7.) PARTIAL OXYGEN RETURN: Pond plants return oxygen to the water. The amount of oxygen is actually not enough to depend on as a viable source. Plants make oxygen in the daylight hours and consume oxygen in darkness. Plants control algae outbreaks by using the excess nutrients in the water.

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Organic Waste in a Koi Pond

2011-06-17T10:50:00.000-07:00

Contrary to popular belief that microorganisms like fungi and bacteria are disease-causing agents, they in fact, play a crucial role not only in biological ecosystems but also in the koi pond itself. Relatively few of these microorganisms are even pathogenic (disease-causing). Without the steady decomposing actions of these microorganisms, the planet would be covered in a layer of sewage several miles deep.

There are two types of microorganisms abundant throughout biological ecosystems. The first type of microorganisms, heterotrophs, need organic carbon to provide them with energy and building blocks for other molecules like amino acids. In a pond, heterotrophs feed on fish waste and mulm. The other type of microorganisms, autotrophs, extract carbon from inorganic carbon dioxide. Autotrophs feed on inorganic compounds like ammonia and nitrite in a pond. Fish waste is broken down by heterotrophs into significantly smaller compounds. Fungi, using enzymes that break down large molecules into soluble nutrients, are responsible for the initial composition. All microorganisms carry out the process of utilizing enzymes to break down organic matter into simpler compounds. In each instance, an enzyme will produce a different organic compound, until the original matter is converted into non-organic forms such as nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. Indeed, mineralization is the full process of the conversion of organic molecules into non-organic matter.

In an ideal setting, the rate of mineralization in a pond would be matched by the production of organic compounds. Unless the filtration and husbandry in a pond is designed to remove these organics at the same rate as they are produced, there will be a significant amount of free organics. Unfortunately, there are many problems that may be encountered as a result of the pollution. Increased levels of organic compounds can make water look mucky and foam may be produced at filter outlets and waterfalls. Another complication is excessive algal growth, which leads to green water from free-floating algae or dreaded blanket weed. Algae will feed on the non-organic products of mineralization like nitrate and phosphates. High levels of ectoparasites like flukes and protozoa are likely to become an issue because they thrive in water with a high organic load. While organic matter is being oxidized or decomposed, it consumes a lot of oxygen. Under certain circumstances, it may be harmful to the health of koi. Environmental gill disease, a common but serious koi health problem, is linked to the presence of high organic loads in a pond. Although high levels of dissolved organic and inorganic compounds are not particularly dangerous alone, they promote disease and affect the overall water quality of a pond.

Sources:
"Controlling Algae." Pond Systems - Kits, Supplies and Koi. Web. 01 Mar. 2011. .
"Getting Rid of Algae in Koi Ponds | The String Algae Blues." Japanese Koi Fish Guide. Web. 01 Mar. 2011. .
"Koi Pond Filters – Keeping It Clean As Nature Intended | Koi Pond Garden." Koi Pond Garden | Koi Fish Pond Care and Maintenance. Web. 01 Mar. 2011. .
"Organic Matter, It Will Be Easier to Understand How These Pollutants Can Affect the Long Term Health." Home Page - Fishdoc.co.uk Koi Health Diagnostics and Pond Fish Medicine. Web. 01 Mar. 2011.

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Pond Aeration

2011-06-17T10:49:00.001-07:00

Dissolved oxygen is a critical part of the ecology of a pond. It is what makes the pond circulate, what allows the koi to be healthy, and keeps the water clean. Dissolved oxygen is actually gaseous oxygen, which is dissolved, in an aqueous solution. In most ponds, the average is 5 ppm. Anything below that can lead to problems. There are unfortunately many critical problems that may result from this.
They include:
  FISH KILL: Fish require a certain amount of dissolved oxygen to live, and if they do not have it they will
die.
POOR OXYGEN LEVELS: They lead to noxious odors coming from the as the break down of organic
waste shifts from an anaerobic process to a slower process, resulting in hydrogen sulfide
production. In deep ponds, lack of oxygen will result stratification, the resulting layer at
the bottom of a pond that becomes useless because it is oxygen deficient. This results in a
reduction of the available living space of koi, putting more stress on the still oxygenated
water. There are many issues that cause oxygen levels to lower.
They include:
   ABUNDANCE OF AQUATIC PLANTS: They are good in moderation, being
that they release oxygen into the water. In the case of algae, planktonic algae
sum up the base of the food chain in a pond. Many of these plants that release
oxygen during the day also consume it at night. When you have a pond with a
heavy algal bloom or thick vegetation, oxygen may be quickly consumed
overnight and even on cloudy days, leading to a FISH KILL.
HIGH ORGANIC WASTE LOAD: Organic waste in a pond may come from a
range of sources such as dead vegetation, fertilizer run-off, fish food, and fish
waste. All of these are broken down in a pond naturally, but in order to do so
efficiently and without further damaging the water quality, oxygen is needed.

There are two types of aeration systems to choose from: SURFACE AERATION and BOTTOM BASED AERATION. You can figure out which works best for you by using the average depth of your bond as a barometer. If your pond is less than six feet deep, the surface aeration will work, while deeper bonds will benefit from a bottom based aeration system.
Surface aerators are floating aeration units that pull in water from the top foot of the pond and splash it into the air. When the water crashes back down onto the pond, the oxygen transfer takes places. Since the oxygen transfer takes places at the surface, these aeration systems are best for SHALLOWER ponds. These units can be equipped with different spray patterns for better appeal, but the more extravagant the spray, the more usually less efficient the aeration is.
  Bottom based aeration system, or diffused aeration involves the act of pushing air down to the bottom of a pond to allow bubbles to rise to the surface. These units are most efficient for aerating deeper pond and lakes since the bubbles provide most of the work. However, these system can be used in shallower ponds, but they would need to installed evenly throughout the pond, which would in turn cost more. When the bubbles rise, they de-stratify the water eliminating the oxygen poor zone at the bottom and mixing it with the oxygen rich water above. This then creates a healthier water column. These systems also create very little surface agitation.

Make sure you receive assistance in sizing a proper aeration until for your pond unless you have a very round, even depth pond.

Once you have a properly sized aeration system, your bond will benefit in many ways including:

FISH KILLS: will be prevented due to low oxygen
MAINTENANCE PRODUCTS: reduced to the ponds natural ability to sustain itself
BENEFICIAL POND BACTERIA: stimulated to break down waste and reduce bottom much layer.
Aerobic bacteria will overcome anaerobic bacteria to control odors.
KEY NUTRIENTS: phosphates are unavailable and metals such as iron are precipitated out
POND WATER: de-stratified leading to the prevention of turnover and improved water quality
ALGAE BLOOMS: less severe and less problematic because of the lack of available nutrients
GASES: carbon dioxide and hydrogen sulfide may be vented

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The Role of Water Quality in Koi Health

2011-06-17T10:49:00.000-07:00

In maintaining healthy koi, water quality is the most important factor to focus on. Most of the health problems that arise in koi are directly traced to an imbalanced water quality state within the pond. In fact, 70% of fish diseases are directly related to water quality. Unfortunately, it is impossible to rid a pond of disease; however, the presence of pathogens in controlled amounts allows koi to build resistance to them.

Similar to the purpose of vaccinating humans against viruses, a koi develops immunity to disease by being exposed to it in small doses. Moreover, it is crucial to realize that a volume of water is as much a unit for breeding disease as it is for keeping koi. If one koi in a pond has a visible infection, there will most likely be other koi in the pond that are infected. However, species of fish vary in their resistance to pathogens like bacteria, fungi, parasites, and viruses. To take the utmost precautions, the owner should still take action as if all the fish in the pond are infected.

The contagiousness of a disease is determined by how proactive the owner is about checking the fish and restoring the water quality balance. Poor husbandry in relation to water quality is the most significant cause of illness in a koi pond. There are seven factors that allow for pathogens to thrive. The first one, lack of water circulation, states that stagnant or slow moving water is essential for bacteria. The second one, lack of water replacement, reasons that replacing a percentage of water on a controlled basis lowers the ratio of bacteria to water. The third one, overcrowding, includes the fact that pathogens will not have any trouble in finding a host where conditions are overcrowded. The fourth factor, unsuitable water conditions, figures that polluted water resulting from overfeeding provides for a prime breeding ground of bacteria. Transferring a koi from environments with different PH’s creates an extreme amount of stress on the fish. Stress, the fifth factor, is the most common precursor of illness. The sixth factor, inadequate nutrition, exemplifies the fact that poor nutrition weakens a koi’s internal defense mechanisms. The last factor, injury, states that secondary infection is likely in an injured koi. Once considering these factors, an owner may be reassured that water quality is something that is manageable

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Winterizing a Pond

2011-06-17T08:52:00.001-07:00

Step 1: First, clean the surface and bottom of the pond. Leaves and debris left in the pond during the winter will pollute the pond and become a health hazard to koi.

Step 2: Figure out the best way to maintain aeration in the pond for the winter season. This can be done by either manually making sure that ice does not solidify on the surface every day, or by purchasing a floating heater. A heater, preventing the pond from icing over entirely, helps aerate the water and can even keep the water a little warmer for koi.

Step 3: Decide what you want to do with your pump. For example, you may choose to bring it inside for the winter to keep it in good running order. However, you can keep the pump in the pond provided it maintains a strong flow and does not risk freezing. IF you choose to do so, be sure your koi have safe hiding spots because an overly strong current will cause stress on them, even killing them. IF you must take out the pump, you still need to allow for movement in the water for aeration. Therefore, you will need to buy a fountain kit in order to keep the water moving to prevent freezing.

Step 4: Monitor the pond on a daily basis during the winter months to make sure the heater/pump/fountain are working correctly. Replace any parts that break down and ALWAYS make sure the water is moving.

Step 5: Make sure to frequently clean and remove any debris that settles in the pond during the winter. Also, do not overfeed koi in the winter. When the water cools, koi fish’s metabolic rates slow down accordingly. Therefore, they do not need the same amounts of nutrition that they would normally need in warmer months.

Back to SplendorKoi.com (Our Koi and Pond Information site)
Back to SplendorKoiandPond.com (Our Koi and Pond Information site and Online Store)

2011 Atlanta PondTour, Saturday June 25

2011-06-14T13:21:00.000-07:00

http://www.atlantakoiclub.org/

If you would like to purchase a map booklet for the 2011 Atlanta Pond Tour, visit our store

http://www.splendorkoipond.com/

Koi - Ponds This Silent Killer

2011-06-07T08:29:00.000-07:00

Ammonia: The Most Common Killer

Presence of excess food, organic debris, and decay of dead fish tissues, inadequate filtration,

http://knol.google.com/k/chuck-crisp/koi-ponds-this-silent-killer/3uc8gaydbpmb1/1

Decoys: Use Them Discerningly

2011-06-04T13:26:00.000-07:00

There are many solutions to guard your prized koi from predators.
Decoys, the most common solution, can solve a Heron problem but
only if you know how to use them correctly. Most people start out
with a decoy before trying any other methods because decoys are…
well, more attractive than placing netting over a pond. The trick to
using a decoy successfully lies in knowing when and where to use
them and for what purpose.

Water Plants Available

2011-05-16T11:59:00.000-07:00

Call 770-321-FISH for prices

http://koibutler.com/

http://www.splendorkoi.com/

Free Gold Fish

2011-05-11T14:09:00.000-07:00

Click on the coupon and then print it!

2011-05-10T10:57:00.000-07:00

Floating Island $ 249.99

2011-05-09T14:17:00.000-07:00

www.splendorkoi.com

770 321 3474

Hours 10:00 am - 4:00 pm

2011-05-09T13:14:00.000-07:00

Splendor Koi and Pond Marietta Georgia

2011-05-09T11:51:00.001-07:00

www.splendorkoi.com
CALL NOW FOR FREE PHONE CONSULTATION 770 321 3474

Customers at Splendor Koi & Pond

2011-05-09T11:48:00.000-07:00

Splendor Koi & Pond

2011-05-09T11:13:00.000-07:00

Splendor Koi and Pond

is unique in that we are the only one of its kind in Georgia.

Our concept is “full-service.” We design, install and maintain

ponds and water gardens while also offering a full line of

pond supplies and a large selection of beautiful Japanese koi.

We are not limited to any one aspect of the water garden

& koi pond industry.

Our Services include:

World-class Japanese koi

Full line of pond and water gardening supplies

New pond design, installation and landscaping

Existing pond consultation, evaluations and testing

One-time, seasonal, or scheduled pond maintenance

At Splendor Koi and Pond, we are eager to assist you

with products and services that enhance a koi pond’s

natural beauty, while focusing on the health and

safety of the water, plants and koi.

Come see our garden pond retail store in Atlanta, Georgia

and take advantage of our fantastic selection of

Japanese koi at incredible prices.

We promise our experienced staff will work closely with you

to create your very own place of splendor.